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Glittering and glowing with excessive grade gem stones, unparalleled artisanship and 21st century stylish, the one-of-a-kind creations by German-born; London-based Sabine Roemer outline new requirements in excessive luxurious jewellery. Whereas her items have bought at such unique retailers as Harrods and at main public sale homes like Christie’s, Roemer has additionally collaborated with couture style designers similar to London-based Tamara Ralph of Ralph and Russo to create high quality jewellery, together with a gold-plated, custom-fitted jewellery corset which Angelina Jolie wore on the crimson carpet to advertise the 2014 movie Maleficent. Roemer’s newest excessive jewellery assortment, entitled ‘Cornerstones,’ consists of eight valuable; one-of-a-kind pairs of earrings and is launching in March 2021 to coincide with Women’s History month. “As you will note for those who go to Sabine’s Instagram gallery @sabineroemer, her jewels are elegant with out being showy, modern and completely distinctive. These are designs that you just simply don’t see wherever else,” Ralph defined. “Whereas completed jewellery designers are uncommon, it’s much more uncommon to be a grasp goldsmith, as properly,” Ralph continued. “You see Sabine’s items and also you additionally see the love and creativity and craft that has gone into them. That’s the additional dimension that offers her items that means.”
This author has reported on Roemer’s jewellery since 2015 and just lately seen her ‘Cornerstones’ by way of FaceTime. The female but sturdy silhouettes of those earrings and their boldly scaled proportions, richly-hued gem stones, and convertible, day-for-night designs symbolize a dynamic evolutionary leap for Roemer and her aesthetic. Incorporating supplies starting from coruscating diamonds to luscious pink tourmalines to exquisitely polished 65 million-year-old ammonite fossils, Roemer’s ‘Cornerstones’ embody a complicated use of supplies and heroic originality that’s fairly uncommon in jewels of this design caliber, materials high quality, grasp artisanship and value level. Whereas ‘Cornerstones’ are instantly recognizable as luxurious creations, their distinctive fashion and substance imbues them with way more design worth and artisanal integrity than jewels produced in multiples by globally branded “luxurious” jewellery corporations.
Transcending tendencies, these items exude glam visible vibes which might be romantic and dignified by their pure design integrity. For instance, Roemer’s spring-like, sculptural “Dream Catcher Tree” earrings memorialize Roemer’s sunlit experiences in Los Angeles as a younger jeweler in that metropolis the place she loved a once-upon-a-time romance. Centered with emerald-cut prehnite and surmounted with delicately carved inexperienced agate leaves which might be removable for a extra informal look, these earrings flash with the refreshing inexperienced mild of brilliant-cut peridot, which is additional enhanced by twinkling diamonds. With smooth nautical silhouettes harking back to stylish sailboats, Roemer’s aquamarine, London blue topaz and diamond “Sail Away with Me” earrings in 18-karat white gold symbolize serenity. Worn at any time when and wherever, these, like all of Roemer’s different jewels, will carry the wearer by means of their life voyage.
“Above all,” Roemer defined throughout our digital go to, “I’m a goldsmith, a silversmith, a metalsmith and a gemologist who’s dedicated to the artwork of making one-of-a-kind items for folks to treasure. I make investments vital time, power and artistry into my excessive jewellery as a result of I’m creating for folks and for collectors who share my ardour.” When requested to outline her mission, she replied, “I consider in creating, carrying and gifting stunning jewels which might be romantic, dignified and handmade with the best care and emotion.” The inventive ardour and unbiased spirit that animates Roemer’s jewels are key components of their distinctive and timeless attract. Having drawn, painted and sculpted all through her childhood, Roemer determined at age fifteen to develop into a jeweler. “I took a week-long jewelry-making course with an area jeweler and completed my first ring in someday and created 6 items over the course of 5 days,” Roemer remembers. It simply got here naturally to me as I completely cherished working with the steel and the instruments and the gems,” she recalled fondly. “I knew I had discovered my ardour and my life’s work.” Surpassing her youthful dream, Roemer grew to become one of many youngest feminine masters ever to have graduated from Germany’s prestigious Pforzheim Goldsmith and Watchmaking School, which was based in 1877 because the Grand Ducal Faculty of Craft in Pforzheim, Germany.
After shifting to London after her commencement, Roemer designed and created jewels for varied Bond Road Jewelers for just a few years. On the age of 30, she launched her first excessive jewellery assortment, ‘Arabian Nights,’ at London’s Harrods in 2020. “This array of twenty-two distinctive items was partially impressed by the basic ‘1,001 Nights’ assortment of Center Japanese people tales compiled in Arabic throughout the Islamic Age that my mother and father learn to me and my brothers once we have been kids,” Roemer defined. Paying colourful tribute to Center Japanese desert tradition, folks and animals, her ‘Arabian Nights’ vary was obtainable on an appointment-only foundation and included an 18-karat gold camel ring replete with ruby and sapphire-studded bit. On this author’s opinion, essentially the most extraordinary jewel from the ‘Arabian Nights’ vary is the regal black leather-based falcon hood adorned with 18-karat gold, pavé diamonds and emeralds. Created to honor the two,000-year-old custom of attempting to find meals with birds of prey within the desert, Roemer defined, “For hundreds of years, leather-based hoods have been used within the Center East, Mongolia, England and Europe to masks raptors,” she famous. These hoods reduce exterior stimuli, preserve the birds calm and assist them perceive the coach’s function in order that they finally study to comply with their instructions. “Falconry is an historical custom embedded in lots of cultures and it’s nonetheless practiced by many within the Center East,” Roemer added. (A Center Japanese royal member of the family bought Roemer’s falcon hood.)
Exponentially extra expert than the standard bench jeweler, Roemer holds the best attainable rank in her trade, for she is a grasp jeweler, goldsmith and designer and an knowledgeable in designing, hand constructing, soldering, wax carving, stone reducing and stone setting. What’s extra, she excels on the engraving, restoration and restore of jewels. “Though they create excessive jewellery and high quality jewellery with platinum, gold, and silver,” Roemer defined, “grasp jewelers usually design and create luxurious items in metals similar to copper or bronze.” For instance, Roemer donated her labor and abilities to design and create a pair of copper and angel pores and skin coral earrings formed like orchids that have been bought at public sale to profit a charity of which Sweden’s Queen Silvia is a patron.
Roemer’s frequent and vital philanthropic initiatives additionally set her other than different jewelers. “After assembly the late South African statesman Nelson Mandela in 2007,” Roemer recalled, “I noticed I might donate my labor plus supply donated gem and jewellery supplies to create one-of-a-kind luxurious jewels and sculptures that Mandela’s basis might public sale for fundraising functions. Assembly Mandela reworked my life for the higher, without end.” Working with different worldwide philanthropists similar to Damian Aspinall, the Duke of Cambridge, Prince William and the 2nd Lord Snowdon, David Linley, Roemer has created a number of distinctive jewels and artwork items for to boost funds for non-profit organizations by way of auctions.
Whereas Roemer has additionally labored within the coronary heart of excessive luxurious as a consulting designer for varied Paris-based, heritage jewellery homes, she is going to all the time stay a non-public jeweler who works with purchasers to construct jewellery collections of inventive and private import. “I’ll all the time have excessive jewellery purchasers,” Roemer ventured, “as a result of there’ll all the time be individuals who love and gather refined, one-of-a-kind jewels. For a whole bunch of years earlier than mass produced jewellery grew to become the norm,” she continued, “it was widespread for folks to depend on household jewelers who they commissioned to create items for engagements, weddings and different milestones. These days, I work with purchasers who will fee me to create one nice piece yearly, or maybe each two or three, relying on their budgets,” she defined. “Excessive jewellery is much less pushed by price considerations than it’s fueled by passionate, connoisseurship.” As Roemer put it, “The collector’s love of excessive jewellery bridges the worlds of emotion, utilized artwork, high quality artwork and household heirlooms.” The exact same assertion might be utilized to Roemer’s singular, glittering and vital physique of one-of-a-kind jewels.
(Writer’s be aware: This text is the primary of March 2021’s Girls’s Historical past month collection concerning feminine jewelers, feminine jewellery designers and feminine gem sellers.)